La Cocina Mexicana by Marilyn Tausend
Author:Marilyn Tausend
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9780520261112
Publisher: University of California Press
CARNE DE VENADO ASADO ESTILO DE PAMES
Venison Cooked in the Pame Style
The close to six thousand indigenous Pame, descendants of the earlier nomadic Chichimec who now live on the rough terrain of the mile-high plateaus of the state of San Luis Potosí, are excellent hunters, and according to Ricardo, the once-abundant deer played an important role in their diet. Since venison is now quite scarce, the more easily available pork is used by the Pame women in dishes like this simple one. If you have access to venison, this is an interesting way to prepare it. A chef from Montana who helped me with testing recipes simply went out in his backyard, shot a mule deer, and cleaned it on the spot, then later trimmed away the silver skin and sliced the meat. Although venison can be special ordered from many meat markets, I use pork, which also contrasts nicely with the brick red sauce. The term asado in the name of this recipe may be confusing as it usually refers to cooking directly on a very hot surface or a grill, but it can also mean roasting or even, as in this dish, cooked in liquid.
Chiles chiltepín are tiny fireballs that grow wild on the canyon steps of San Luis Potosí, but the cultivated closely related piquín will add a similar kick of penetrating heat. Look for these small chiles in Mexican groceries and in many supermarkets.
Lots of hot corn tortillas (page 19) are a necessity, and Frijoles Chinos (page 216) and Arroz Blanco (page 223) usually accompany this dish.
Serves 4 with leftovers
FOR THE MEAT
2 pounds venison or pork loin, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-inch-thick slices
1 small white onion, quartered
3 cloves garlic, halved
1 tablespoon sea salt
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried marjoram
1 bay leaf
FOR THE SAUCE
½ pound ripe tomatoes (about 2 medium), coarsely chopped, or 1 cup diced canned tomatoes, drained
2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
6 chiles piqufns, crumbled
1 teaspoon sea salt
2 tablespoons freshly rendered pork lard (page 24) or canola or safflower oil
FOR THE GARNISH
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro, thick stem ends removed
2 teaspoons finely chopped green onion
FOR THE MEAT: If using the pork, put it in a large pot along with the onion, garlic, salt, thyme, marjoram, bay leaf, and water to cover and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Lower the heat to a gentle simmer, cover, and cook until the pork is tender, about 45 minutes. Remove from the heat and drain. Set the pork aside and discard the remaining contents of the sieve. If using the venison, omit this precooking step. In a small bowl, mix together half of the salt, thyme, and marjoram and rub the mixture into the venison pieces.
FOR THE SAUCE: Put the tomatoes, garlic, chiles, and salt in a blender or food processor and process until smooth. Coat the meat with the tomato mixture.
Heat the lard in a heavy skillet or cazuela over medium-high heat until shimmering.
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