Italian Food by Elizabeth David

Author:Elizabeth David
Language: eng
Format: mobi, epub
ISBN: 9781101573846
Publisher: Penguin Group US
Published: 1999-01-31T20:00:00+00:00

Knives include oyster openers, a scraping knife, a carving knife, a pie knife, a pastry knife. Left, an iron for dissecting tripe, a spit for small birds. Lower, a sheath for knives, skewers, a macaroni roller, a syringe for fritters, a meat fork.

COSTA DI MANZO AL VINO ROSSO

(RIB OF BEEF MARINATED IN RED WINE)

Choose, if possible, a thick piece of rib of beef weighing about 3 lb. and with the bone. It will need rather a large, shallow casserole or braising pan, but if this is not available the bone can be removed. Put the meat into an earthenware dish or bowl and over it pour a good half bottle of strong red wine. Add a small sliced onion, a sliced carrot, a piece of celery, a couple of bay leaves, a clove or two of garlic and a little ground black pepper. The meat is to marinate for about 24 hours, being turned over three or four times so that each side is well soaked in the wine. When the time comes to cook it, take it out of the marinade and dry it very carefully. In a casserole which will conveniently hold the meat melt a little butter or dripping; brown the meat on both sides. Add salt. In the meantime, in another pan, reduce the strained marinade to half its original volume; pour it over the meat. Cover the pan, and simmer very slowly for about 3 hours, or longer if the meat is very tough. At the end of the cooking there should be just sufficient sauce, thickish, to moisten each person’s helping. Should the meat used be on the fat side some of the fat will have to be skimmed off the sauce.

I have adapted this excellent recipe from Ada Boni’s Talismano della Felicità. Even an impossibly tough and coarse piece of meat cooked in this way (so long as it has simmered in the most leisurely way) emerges tender, full of flavour, and not in the least stringy. Potato gnocchi (p. 91), moistened with butter and a little grated Parmesan, make a nice accompaniment.

STUFATINO ALLA ROMANA

(ROMAN BEEF STEW)

A traditional Roman dish. It is made with the lean part of shin of beef, cut off the bone into thinnish slices. For six people allow about 2 ½ lb. of meat, minus bone and fat. In dripping or butter sauté a small onion and 2 sliced cloves of garlic. When this has slightly browned add 1 ½ oz. of bacon, in strips; give this a stir and add the pieces of meat seasoned with salt and pepper and a little marjoram. Let the meat brown on both sides, and pour in a tumbler of strong dry red wine; let this bubble until it has reduced by at least half. Now stir in a tablespoonful, not more, of concentrated tomato purée (or 4–6 large peeled and chopped tomatoes). Let this cook for 3 to 4 minutes, then pour in enough boiling water to barely cover the meat. Cover the pan, and simmer the stufatino very slowly for 2–3 hours.

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