Italian Cuisine Cultural History by Alberto Capatti Massimo Montanari
Author:Alberto Capatti, Massimo Montanari [Montanari, Alberto Capatti, Massimo]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: aVe4EvA
Publisher: Columbia University Press
Published: 2003-08-13T20:00:00+00:00
diluted soups or thin broths, featuring an entire series of imbricated operations and also requiring the creation of cold, preprepared or quickly prepared dishes. Alphabetical indexing nonetheless enjoyed limited success in recipe collections, insofar as it mixed lean dishes designated for days of abstinence with fat dishes considered suitable for ordinary days, soups with desserts. Hence this system was adopted exclusively by culinary dictionaries, which were intended mainly for professional use. The dictionaries, which began to appear in the second half of the nineteenth century, differ from both encyclopedic works such as the Dizionario ragionato degli alimenti (Methodical food dictionary) by Francesco Leonardi, printed in Rome in 1795, and domestic glossaries written in dialect, such as Puoti’s Vocabolario domestico napoletano e toscano (Domestic dictionary: Neapolitan and Tuscan), or practical, Tuscan works such as Carena’s Prontuario di vocaboli attinenti alle cose domestiche (Handbook of terms pertaining to domestic matters).29 Under each entry, the culinary dictionary provided a lexical definition, a gastronomical description, and a variable number of recipes. Among the earliest was Dizionario della cucina moderna (Dictionary of modern cooking) by Giacomo Giardini, the president of an association of Milanese cooks and a promoter of the Italian translation of La cuisine classique by Urbain Dubois and Emile Bernard.30 Published in Milan in 1885, Giardini’s dictionary instructs its users in both Italian and French, discussing common foods (cauliflower) as well as rarer items (dolphin and bear), without neglecting simple dishes such as fried eggs, specially provided for neophytes. Entries relating to service are either omitted or, like menus, relegated to an appendix, while the wine cellar appears under the entry for wine.
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