Frommer's Italy 2019 by Stephen Brewer

Author:Stephen Brewer
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: 9781628873955
Publisher: FrommerMedia
Published: 2018-08-20T16:00:00+00:00

Colorful fishermen’s homes on the island of Burano.

Dozens of fornaci (kilns) offer free shows of mouth-blown glassmaking almost invariably hitched to a hard-sell tour of the factory outlet store. Once you’re on the island, you can’t miss these places (and they’re pretty much of equivalent quality), but Original Murano Glass (9:30am–5pm daily; reserve free tours and demonstrations at www.originalmuranoglass.com), at the Ellegi Glass fornaci, Fondamenta San Giovanni dei Battuti 4, is a dependable choice (it’s a few minutes walk from the Murano Faro vaporetti stop). Almost all the shops will ship their goods, but that often doubles the price. On the other hand, these pieces are instant heirlooms.

Murano is also graced by two worthy churches (both free admission): the largely 15th-century San Pietro Martire (Mon–Sat 9am–5:30pm, Sun noon–5:30pm), with paintings by Veronese and Giovanni Bellini, and the ancient Santa Maria e Donato (Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 12:30–6pm), with its intricate Byzantine exterior apse, 6th-century pulpit, stunning mosaic of Mary, and a fantastic 12th-century inlaid floor.

Burano

Lace is the claim to fame of tiny, historic Burano, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from the sea. Sadly, most of the lace sold on the island these days is made by machine elsewhere. The local government continues its attempt to keep Burano’s centuries-old lace legacy alive with subsidized classes. It’s still worth a trip to stroll the back streets of the island, whose canals are lined with the brightly colored, simple homes of the Buranesi fishermen—quite unlike anything in Venice or Murano. Butter biscuits, known as buranelli, are another famous island product—expect to be offered them in almost every store.

While you’re there, visit the Museo del Merletto (Museum of Lace Making), Piazza Galuppi 187 (www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it; 041/730034), to understand why something so exquisite should not be left to fade into extinction. It’s open Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 6pm (Nov–Mar to 5pm); admission is 5€ adults, and 3.50€ for children 6 to 14 and students 25 and under.

Torcello

Torcello is perhaps the most charming of the islands, though today it consists of little more than one long canal leading from the vaporetto landing to a clump of buildings at its center.

Torcello boasts the oldest Venetian monument, the Basilica di Santa Maria dell’Assunta , whose foundation dates from the 7th century ( 041/2702464). It’s famous for its spectacular 11th- to 12th-century Byzantine mosaics—a “Madonna and Child” in the apse and a monumental “Last Judgment” on the west wall—rivaling those of Ravenna’s and St. Mark’s basilicas. The cathedral is open daily 10:30am to 6pm (Nov–Feb to 5pm), and admission is 5€ (audio guide an extra 2€; no photos). Also of interest is the adjacent 11th-century Santa Fosca (free admission), a Byzantine brick church with a plain interior, and the Museo di Torcello ( 041/730761), showcasing archeological artifacts from the Iron Age to medieval period, many found on the island. The church closes 30 minutes before the basilica, and the museum is open Tuesday to Sunday 10:30am to 5:30pm (Nov–Feb to 5pm).

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