From a Polish Country House Kitchen by Anne Applebaum

Author:Anne Applebaum
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781452124254
Publisher: Chronicle Books LLC

Serves 4

French influence on Polish food is hardly surprising: Until recently, when English took over, most educated Poles spoke French. During the nineteenth century, when Poland was divided into thirds and occupied by the Russians (in the east), the Prussians (in the West), and the Austrians (in the south), Paris became the center of the exile community. French culture dominated life back home, too, as it did in most European capitals in an era when French was the language of diplomacy. Poland is also one of the few countries in Europe, outside of France itself, where Napoleon is still admired. Napoleon passed through Poland on his way to Moscow, and promised the Poles in the east independence from Russia, which he never delivered. Famously, he complained about the bad roads, some of which have still failed to improve.

This dish may well be something Napoleon left behind. There are many Polish variations of meat or poultry simmered in some sort of creamy mushroom sauce sprinkled with dill, and all of them bring to mind the classic French veal stew blanquette de veau. Danielle experimented with this dish, and decided to adapt the Polish version to the French one, substituting a cut-up whole chicken for the traditional veal shoulder and adding pan-roasted root vegetables to the sauce at the end (with, of course, mushrooms and a shower of fresh dill). The chicken is lighter, easier, and quicker to prepare than the veal, and the earthiness of the vegetables adds rustic depth to what is often a bland, rich sauce.

For a twist on texture, we used dried morels instead of ordinary mushrooms. If you prefer another type, go ahead—chanterelles or shiitakes would also work here—or, of course, use cultivated mushrooms instead.

1 oz/30 g dried morels, or another dried wild mushroom of your choice; or if you prefer, substitute 1/2 lb/225 g fresh brown mushrooms (such as cremini) or white mushrooms, cleaned (see Note, page 115) and trimmed

2 cups/480 ml boiling water

1 whole chicken (about 31/2 to 41/2 lb/1.6 to 2 kg), cut up into

8 serving pieces

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 tbsp olive oil

3 tbsp all-purpose flour

1 cup/240 ml dry white wine

2 cups/480 ml chicken broth; plus 1 cup/240 ml chicken or vegetable broth (optional; use if cooking fresh mushrooms)

2 tbsp unsalted butter, plus 1 cup/225 g

10 oz/280 g white pearl onions (We use the precooked frozen— saves a lot of work. You do not need to thaw.)

1 large celery root, peeled and cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes

4 medium carrots, peeled and halved lengthwise

3 medium parsnips, peeled and halved lengthwise

1 cup/240 ml crème fraîche or light sour cream

Large handful of chopped fresh dill or parsley

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