Fodor's British Virgin Islands by Fodor's

Author:Fodor's
Language: eng
Format: mobi, epub
ISBN: 9781400004621
Publisher: Fodor's Travel Publications
Published: 2010-11-15T10:00:00+00:00

VIRGIN GORDA

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Virgin Gorda, or “Fat Virgin,” received its name from Christopher Columbus. The explorer envisioned the island as a pregnant woman in a languid recline, with Gorda Peak being her big belly and the boulders of the Baths her toes. Different in topography from Tortola, with its arid landscape covered with scrub brush and cactus, Virgin Gorda has a slower pace of life, too. Goats and cattle own the right-of-way, and the unpretentious friendliness of the people is winning.

EXPLORING VIRGIN GORDA

One of the most efficient ways to see Virgin Gorda is by sailboat. There are few roads, and most byways don’t follow the scalloped shoreline. The main route sticks resolutely to the center of the island, linking the Baths on the southern tip with Gun Creek and Leverick Bay at North Sound. The craggy coast, scissored with grottoes and fringed by palms and boulders, has a primitive beauty. If you drive, you can hit all the sights in one day. The best plan is to explore the area near your hotel (either Spanish Town or North Sound) first, then take a day to drive to the other end. Stop to climb Gorda Peak, which is in the island’s center. Signage is erratic, so come prepared with a map.

Fodor’s Choice | The Baths. | Photo

At Virgin Gorda’s most celebrated sight, giant boulders are scattered about the beach and in the water. Some are almost as large as houses and form remarkable grottoes. Climb between these rocks to swim in the many placid pools. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times to visit if you want to avoid crowds. If it’s privacy you crave, follow the shore northward to quieter bays—Spring Bay, the Crawl, Little Trunk, and Valley Trunk—or head south to Devil’s Bay. | Off Tower Rd., The Baths VG1150 | 284/494–3904 | www.bvinationalparkstrust.org | $3 | Daily dawn–dusk.

Coastal Islands.

You can easily reach the quaintly named Fallen Jerusalem Island and the Dog Islands by boat. You can rent boats in Tortola and Virgin Gorda. They’re all part of the BVI National Parks Trust, and their seductive beaches and unparalleled snorkeling display the BVI at their beachcombing, hedonistic best. | No phone | Free.

Copper Mine Point.

Here stand a tall stone shaft silhouetted against the sky and a small stone structure that overlooks the sea. These are the ruins of a copper mine established 400 years ago and worked first by the Spanish, then by the English, until the early 20th century. The route is not well marked, so turn inland near LSL Restaurant and look for the hard-to-see sign pointing the way. | Copper Mine Rd. VG1150 | No phone | www.bvinationalparkstrust.org | Free.

Spanish Town.

Virgin Gorda’s peaceful main settlement, on the island’s southern wing, is so tiny that it barely qualifies as a town at all. Also known as the Valley, Spanish Town has a marina, some shops, and a couple of car-rental agencies. Just north of town is the ferry slip. At the Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour you can stroll along the dock and do a little shopping.

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