Fast, Light & Free: On the Appalachian Trail by Matt Kirk

Author:Matt Kirk [Kirk, Matt]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Published: 2015-07-08T21:00:00+00:00

Day 32: Daylight to Spare

Xday, July 11, 2013

Today’s Mileage: 34.8

Total Mileage: 1152.5/2,185.9

Hopefully shelter mice are her main course. 5:51 am: In the soft morning light, I quietly eat granola bars and sip coffee at the shelter’s picnic table. Stray kitty joins me for breakfast. She manages to mooch a couple crumbs of granola off of me, but hopefully shelter mice are her main course. I silently wave to the few other hikers who are awake as I shoulder my pack and head south.

In just over eight miles, I cross into Maryland at the Mason-Dixon Line. By nine o’clock, it’s already hot and humid. I pause by a sleepy railroad crossing and scan my guidebook for a couple of carrots to pull me through this day. From years past, I vaguely remember a vending machine at Pen Mar Park, which is just around the bend. I make my way to the developed overlook. But unfortunately, everything is shut down and boarded up.

Empty handed, I at least enjoy the wonderful view west into Antietam Creek Valley. Since a restaurant stop did so well to pull me along yesterday, I decide to give it another go today. My carrot becomes dinner at the Old South Mountain Inn, 23 miles away. First, I need to hydrate in this heat. With everything locked up, there’s no functioning spigot in the park. I have to push on to fill up at Beaver Creek before a short and steep climb back atop the ridge.

South Mountain drops precariously away at the cliffs of Black and Annapolis Rocks. The trail skirts the top of these overlooks and offers a panoramic view west into Hagerstown. A gentle afternoon breeze blows across the valley. Cumulus clouds pile up, but nothing appears too threatening. I stop for a snack and then enjoy a fast descent on a heavily travelled section through the woods to and across an interstate overpass.

After traversing someone’s front yard, the footpath leaves the noise and suburban development for the forest. I settle into a steady rhythm and soon arrive to Washington Monument State Park. Here, I have better luck at finding a functioning spigot. But now I am only a couple miles from my carrot stop for the day. I make my way to Turner’s Gap and change into my cleaner wool shirt before walking into this rather fancy trailside restaurant.

Perhaps due to the paltry patronage, I’m quite welcome inside. Given the prices, I shy away from a full entree and assume a seat by the bar. I enjoy a draft beer with an appetizer, then settle up and continue on my way. Within a quarter of a mile, I arrive at the Dahlgren Backpacker Campsite with a public bathroom facility. A hot shower becomes my second treat for the evening. Feeling nice and clean, I push on a short ways further.

8:15 pm: On the gradual north side of Lambs Knoll, I find a small flat spot to rig my tarp in the quiet woods. The green canopy quivers gently overhead in a pleasant evening breeze.

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