Cooking for Good Times by Paul Kahan & Perry Hendrix & Rachel Holtzman
Author:Paul Kahan & Perry Hendrix & Rachel Holtzman [Kahan, Paul & Hendrix, Perry & Holtzman, Rachel]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Potter/Ten Speed/Harmony/Rodale
Published: 2019-10-15T00:00:00+00:00
Canned Tomatoes School
Pretty much every serious pizza guy says the same thing when you ask, “What’s the sauce for your Margherita?” Raw tomatoes. Maybe they add a handful of basil or some garlic, but it’s always raw tomatoes. It’s just good, clean, tomato flavor and it’s less gloopy than a cooked sauce. I mean why cook them if you don’t have to?
The first thing you’ll want to do is make sure you’re using tomatoes in juice, not in sauce. Then look for good (preferably Italian) tomatoes, since cheaper ones don’t have as much “zing” to them. The higher-quality brands are canned a little bit quicker, so the tomatoes are a little fresher and have more acidity and a richer flavor. My first choice is Bianco DiNapoli (owned by my great friend and pizza hero Chris Bianco), followed by San Marzano and Muir Glen.
The easiest tomatoes to work with are the ones that are already crushed so you don’t have to do anything to them, but if you can only find whole tomatoes, just give them a couple clicks in the blender. You could also use a food mill, if that excites you. I highly recommend making extra batches of this sauce, as it keeps for a week and freezes well, and you can use it to do things like braise chicken or toss with pasta. And don’t skip grating the garlic—it makes a world of difference.
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