Chez Panisse Cafe Cookbook by Alice L. Waters

Author:Alice L. Waters
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: HarperCollins

HEADCHEESE

Headcheese, or fromage de tête, is a jellied meat dish that was invented to ensure that none of the edible parts of a pig would go to waste. It is one of those old-fashioned molded meat salads that are nothing short of exquisite when properly made. It is almost impossible to get a good one these days, even in France. The jelly must be just set and full of flavor. A small slice of headcheese served with a garlicky Dandelion Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette makes a refreshing—and surprisingly light—start to a meal.

Serves 4 to 6.

1 small pig’s head, about 5½ pounds

2 pig’s feet

Salt

1 large onion, halved

3 cloves

1 leek, halved lengthwise and rinsed

3 carrots

½ head garlic, broken into cloves

2 bay leaves

8 allspice berries

4 sprigs thyme

4 sprigs parsley

1 cup dry white wine

Black pepper

Nutmeg, for grating

3 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 to 2 teaspoons Champagne vinegar

ASK your butcher to cut the pig’s head in half and remove and discard the brain. Also have the pig’s feet cut in half—they will supply the necessary natural gelatin. Salt the head and feet heavily, and refrigerate overnight. Rinse well and place in a stockpot along with the onion stuck with the cloves, the leek, carrots, garlic cloves, bay, allspice, thyme, parsley, and wine. Cover with cold water and bring to a simmer. Skim the foam that rises to the surface and cook slowly until the meat pulls away from the bones, about 2 to 3 hours. Be careful not to cook so much that the meat falls apart completely. Remove the head, feet, and carrots from the stock and set aside to cool.

Strain the stock and discard all the other vegetables, herbs, and spices. Return the stock to the pot and cook over high heat, skimming periodically, until it has reduced by half. Ladle a little reduced stock into a shallow bowl and refrigerate to see if it gels—it should be firm but not rubbery. A too-firm jelly may be diluted with a little water; if it is too loose reduce the stock further.

When the meat is cool enough to handle, tear the meat from the head and foot bones. Shred the meat, using a knife and your fingers. Include a little tender skin and fat. Thinly slice the ears and snout—you may encounter some cartilage that is too tough to eat, but it is nice to have a little crunch. Peel the tongue and cut into small cubes. Slice the carrot. In a large mixing bowl combine all these ingredients and season with black pepper, nutmeg, parsley, and Champagne vinegar. Taste and correct the seasoning; since the headcheese will be served cold, it must be highly seasoned. Put the mixture in a 5-cup terrine or loaf pan and ladle about 2 cups of reduced stock over it. Cover and refrigerate overnight. To serve, unmold carefully and cut into slices about ¾ inch thick.

Download

Copyright Disclaimer:
This site does not store any files on its server. We only index and link to content provided by other sites. Please contact the content providers to delete copyright contents if any and email us, we'll remove relevant links or contents immediately.