Beard on Food by James Beard

Author:James Beard
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing Plc
Published: 2009-01-04T16:00:00+00:00

Quiche, the People s Choice

I can remember when quiche Lorraine was a great novelty. Now every bride attempts it, most restaurants have it on the menu, and it is considered the chic thing to serve guests. Considering the peasant origin of the dish, that's a pretty rapid rise in status.

Seldom, however, do you find quiche Lorraine made by the ttue, classic method. Originally, this open-faced tart from the province of Lorraine consisted of bread dough with a filling of eggs, cream, and usually bacon—no cheese. The idea of including cheese probably crept in because fresh cream cheese sometimes replaced the cream.

If you are making bread, you might try the classic crust. Roll out btead dough very, very thinly or else take a small chunk and press it into a tart tin or pie pan with your fists. Add the quiche filling and bake according to the recipe I am going to give you. Or go the usual route and make a pastry shell instead.

I personally feel a pastry shell is much better for being prebaked before the filling is added. For Quiche Pastry, sift 2 cups all-purpose flour and teaspoon salt into a bowl or onto a board. Make a well in the center and add pound butter, cut in very small pieces, and 1 egg mixed with 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Work this thoroughly with the fingertips (or in a mixer with a paddle, not a beater, attachment) until the butter is incorporated and the dough stiff. Add additional liquid if necessary. Form into a ball and chill for at least half an hour.

Roll out the dough between sheets of waxed paper and line an 8inch or 9-inch pie pan or tart tin (the kind with a removable bottom is good for quiche). Don't pull the dough—just lift it up gently and let it settle in the pan. Trim and crimp the edges, put a piece of foil or waxed paper on the dough, and weight it down with uncooked beans ot rice to prevent the pastry from puffing up during baking. Bake in a 425-degree oven for 18 minutes, then remove the beans or rice and paper, brush the inside of the shell with a little beaten egg yolk, and bake 3 minutes longei. This glazes the center so it won't get soggy. Cool a little before filling.

For Quiche Lorraine, arrange 6 strips of cooked, well-drained bacon in the baked shell. Beat 3 egg yolks with 2 whole eggs, and combine with cup heavy cream, teaspoon salt, and a pinch of nutmeg. Blend well and pour over the bacon. Sprinkle with nutmeg and a touch of freshly ground black pepper. Bake in a 375-degree oven for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the filling is delicately browned and puffy and just set in the center. Remove from the oven, cool for a moment, then cut in wedges and serve. Quiche should be eaten fresh from the oven while it is gently risen and creamy, rather than when it has settled down to flat solidity.

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