Be Unstoppable by Bethany Hamilton

Author:Bethany Hamilton [Hamilton, Bethany]
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9780310764854
Publisher: Zondervan
Published: 2018-05-02T00:00:00+00:00

As enthusiastic as I am about staying healthy and strong, it is important to rest when I need to and not overdo it. Our bodies work hard, and we need to care for them.

JAWS MAUI

I’ve always wanted to push my big wave surfing and take on the infamous Pe’ahi “Jaws” at its best. Six months after I had a baby, the conditions aligned and I was on a plane to Maui to do just that. To surf big waves, I spend so much time thinking on it, hoping for it, training, prepping, planning, and then going for it. My first session at Jaws was a tow-in session, where a jet ski whipped me into the biggest waves of my life. I was on cloud nine!

The next week, I paddled into Jaws; it was hands down the scariest surf of my life. Adrenaline was surging through my body the entire day. I just had to put my head down and go.

It’s terrifying and exciting, and like one of the best big wave surfers, Greg Long, says about Jaws: “There’s nothing else I’ve ever seen or experienced that even comes close to that wave, and that’s what draws us all there year after year, swell after swell.”

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