Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume 1: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey

Author:Fred Beckey
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: The Mountaineers Books
Published: 2000-08-14T16:00:00+00:00

THREE QUEENS

6,687 ft/2,038 m

This distinctive triple-peaked rock formation, once known as Mineral Mountain, is located 3 mi NE of Little Kachess Lake and 4 mi W of Cooper Lake. The main portion of the peak is part of the Naches Formation, the same as nearby Chikamin Peak and Lemah Mountain, but on the E flank there is a rock unit that is part of the Snoqualmie batholith. Of the three individual summits, the East Peak is highest and bulkiest; the Middle Peak (6,600 ft+) and the needlelike West Peak (6,400 ft+) are less massive.

The first ascent was made by eight Mountaineers led by Glen Bremerman and C. A. Fisher in August 1925. Reference: Mountaineer, 1925, pp. 25, 63.

Map: USGS, Chikamin Peak.

SOUTHEAST SHOULDER: Hike Mineral Creek Trail to an open talus slope (2.3 mi—3,500 ft). Ascend directly to the obvious notch on the SE ridge, above. Cross the notch through a pass, then continue around the back side (N) for about 0.25 mi to a class-3 ledge. Ascend to the rock ridge, then SW to the summit. Time: 5 hours from the trail.

An alternate route is to ascend 80 ft of steep rock on the SE face. Here, follow an obvious ledge to the S face, where the first gully is taken 300 ft to the summit ridge near the summit (possibly some class 5).

An alternate approach is to leave the trail near the creek ford (est. 3,000 ft) at about 0.25 mi above the old minesite. Ascend N up the obvious spur ridge (some brush at beginning) to the Southeast Shoulder.

Another approach is via the road through Cooper Pass; ascend the lightly forested spur between Mineral Creek and Kachess River.

EAST ROUTE: After driving to Cooper Pass (via Cle Elum River Road ), take the first logging spur on the right (no. 126) to its end. A path from the top of the clear-cut leads to a timbered ridge. Follow to a cirque N of the small lake; ascend the rockslide in the cirque, then follow the main ridge to where one can traverse to an expansive bench system on the N side of the summit. A rock route can be taken to the summit; a short scramble of class 3–4. The final portion of this route could also be reached from Spectacle Lake.

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