Sushi Chef: Sukiyabashi Jiro by Satomi Shinzo

Author:Satomi, Shinzo [Satomi, Shinzo]
Language: eng
Format: azw3
ISBN: 9781942993285
Publisher: Kodansha USA
Published: 2016-05-23T16:00:00+00:00

There is a reason I don’t like ’nawa

The best chubo that I made nigiri with was from Oma on the Strait of Tsugaru and was caught by pole-and-line fishing in 1993. It had a smooth, unforgettable deliciousness with a subtle aroma and soft sweetness that’s different from large shibi.

The oma’s popularity is increasing drastically lately. Before the great earthquake that hit southwest offshore Hokkaido, shibi from Teuri Island (in the Sea of Japan) had a good reputation, but we can no longer seem to catch any, maybe because the course for the fish at the bottom of the sea has changed. Now if it’s called “oma,” then regardless of its size, the bid price hikes up.

That’s because the fishermen in Oma use poles and lines to catch maguro that have feasted on squid off the coast of Hokkaido and gained plenty of fat and are now prowling the strait for more food. After landing one, the gents immediately haul it to port, so they get paid well. This is why the freshness, fattiness, and coloring is good, but that forty-kilo chubo was the best by far.

There is a clear difference in taste between ipponzuri (pole-and-line fishing) and the predominant haenawa (longline) method of catching maguro. I compared them with my palate and came to this conclusion.

That’s to say, those maguro swimming in shallow waters that aren’t too big are the ones caught by ipponzuri (pole-and-line fishing), hikinawa (seine fishing), makiami (round-haul netting), and teichiami (fixed-net fishing). I prefer smallish maguro that weigh under 150 kilos that are landed by pole-and-line fishing. It’s not too fatty and has a nice aroma and tastes smooth. It will be impeccable if it’s from Hokkaido or Aomori in season. The fishermen around that area know what to do with their catch.

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