Mauritius, Reunion & Seychelles Travel Guide by Lonely Planet
Author:Lonely Planet
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Lonely Planet
LE MAÏDO BY BUS
Walkers, take note: from the central bus station in St-Paul, there’s a special bus to Le Maïdo (that takes you to the start of the Sentier de Roche-Plate, the footpath into the Cirque de Mafate, which strikes off the road about 4km below the summit) three times daily except Sunday (€1.50, one hour); the first bus leaves at 6am and the last one down is at 5.20pm.
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Les Hauts de St-Paul
A world away from the hurly-burly of the coast, the verdant Hauts de St-Paul is wonderful country for exploring off the beaten track but, unless you have a lot of time, you need a vehicle. Buses serve most places from St-Paul, but they aren’t really convenient for the Hauts. We won’t suggest any set itinerary, for this area lends itself to a DIY approach – from St-Paul, use the D5 as a launchpad, then follow your nose (but bring a good map). You’ll come across hamlets with such charming names as Sans Soucis les Hauts, Bellemène-les-Hauts, Bois-de-Nèfles, Le Bernica, Le Guillaume… It’s as cute as it sounds! Start early morning to get the best views of the coast.
Sleeping Eating
La Caz des Orangers GUESTHOUSE €
( 0692 08 23 12, 0262 44 50 32; www.lacazdesorangers.com; 24 Impasse Cernot, Sans Soucis les Hauts; d €49, s/d without bathroom €30/36, incl breakfast; ) It’s a long drive uphill to get to this sweet establishment located in Sans Souci Les Hauts, about 10km northeast of St-Paul, but you’ll be rewarded with enchanting views of the coast and shimmering sea below. It provides a cosy sitting room, tidy bedrooms with minimalist decor and a lovely garden bursting with tropical plants. Add another €10 for dinner (bargain!). It’s a great base for hikers going to/from the Cirque de Mafate via the Canalisation des Orangers – the trailhead is just 200m uphill.
Chez Suzy et Gaia BB €€
( 0692 52 82 59, 0262 32 45 14; www.chez-gayaetsuzie.sitew.com; 197 Route Hubert-Delisle, Bellemène Canot; d incl breakfast €46; ) This simple chambre d’hôte run by a hospitable Indian couple has two modest but tidy rooms – be sure to ask for the ‘ vue mer’ (room with a sea view). The dinner menu (€25) is based on good-quality local produce, including home-grown vegetables.
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Le Maïdo Around
Be prepared to fall on your knees in awe: far above St-Paul and St-Gilles-les-Bains on the rim of the Cirque de Mafate, Le Maïdo is one of the most impressive viewpoints in Réunion. The lookout is perched atop the mountain peak at 2205m and offers stunning views down into the Cirque and back to the coast. As with other viewpoints, you should arrive early in the day – by 7am if possible – if you want to see anything other than cloud.
Getting there is half the fun. The sealed Route Forestière du Maïdo winds all the way up to the viewpoint from Le Guillaume (14km) in the hills above St-Gilles-les-Bains, offering a scenic drive through majestic cryptomeria forests. On the way,
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