English Pris Ils 205 by LIONEL W FOX

Author:LIONEL W FOX [FOX, LIONEL W]
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781136266454
Barnesnoble:
Publisher: Taylor & Francis
Published: 2013-07-23T00:00:00+00:00

(4) CLOTHING

It is difficult to strike the right note in prison dress. One of the earliest of the changes made after the First World War was to abandon deliberately defamatory dress—the drab tunic and breeches, sown with broadarrows, which are still cherished by cartoonists. In place of this came a plain suit ofjacket, waistcoat and trousers, worn with a shirt, collar and tie, woollensocks and black leather shoes. But the result was disappointing: no-one could feel that it helped to stimulate self-respect. In particular the practice of boiling all outer garments before re-issue, though hygienically sound, did not make for good appearance. Women at this time wore jean dresses, with aprons and white washable caps, woollen cardigans for colder weather, and underclothing that approached the normal scarcely more inprinciple than in detail.

After the late War, the Commissioners reconsidered the whole position, and in view of the difficulties of providing suits cut on normal civilian lines to look well on such a large and constantly changing population, other possibilities were discussed, such as something along the lines of the ‘battle-dress’ suit popularised during the war. However the balance ofadvantage seemed to be in favour of a suit, and much care was devoted togetting a suitable cloth which would stand up to the conditions, and a style that would look well and could still be made up in prison work-shops. Two important innovations were the substi-tution of dry-cleaning for boiling, and the provision of protective clothing for use at work. The underclothing and shoes were also brought into line with normal wear.

A more radical change was made for the women, who may now have achoice of frocks (in four colours to their own taste) made in a ‘zephyr’ material to a normal (though uniform) design. Two dresses are issued, one for work, one for the evening. Maternity frocks of similar material are alsoavailable. The underclothing, stockings and shoes were also revised andwould probably now be acceptable, in the circumstances, to most women:those who wish to use their own corsets and brassieres may do so, if theyare fit for use. The grey wool cardigans remain, and aprons, overalls, raincoats, boots etc., are issued as required by the nature of the work.

The men’s suits are of plain grey cloth for the convicted, and of brown for untried and civil prisoners who choose to wear prison dress. Men in the higher stages of a long-term sentence wear navy bluejackets. The shirts are cream coloured with a pin-stripe, have attached collars, and are worn with aplain blue or brown tie. A second shirt is issued for night wear. It is a littleearly yet to pronounce on the general effect, but though it is an improvement, it does not so far look like fulfilling the hopes of thedesigners: and time will not improve it. There is, however, no doubt thatthe working dress, of ordinary blue bib-and-brace overalls, is a pronounced success: the appearance of prisoners at work is normal and workmanlike.

The outer clothing is diversified by stripes

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