Another Bangkok by Alex Kerr

Author:Alex Kerr [Kerr, Alex]
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9780141987187
Publisher: Penguin Books Ltd
Published: 2021-06-02T00:00:00+00:00

Pageantry

The whole thrust of royal Siamese culture since Ayutthaya was the building of fantasy worlds, ethereal realms that are not of this earth. A lot of thought and choreography goes into creating illusion. When the King used to meet foreign ambassadors in the 1600s, he would wait until they all gathered; then a curtain would be pulled back, revealing him on a high golden throne, a vision of the divine.

Bangkok goes on doing gorgeous pageantry, especially at times of royal anniversaries, such as we experienced in 2007 (King Rama IX’s eightieth birthday), and 2019 (the accession of King Rama X).

One form the pageantry takes is the sum, or decorative arches, which started in the early twentieth century. Perhaps the first was a royal celebration arch in the form of elephants with raised trunks spanning Ratchadamnoen Avenue, built in 1907 in honour of King Rama V’s return from a trip to Europe. It’s believed that the King was inspired by the arches he saw in Europe.

In recent years sum arches have boomed, spurred by the growing role of the monarchy in official life. Some towns such as Chiang Mai boast sum khao mueang (‘entering-town sum’) spanning the roads at the city’s edge. In Bangkok the most dramatic sum still arch over Ratchadamnoen, the royal avenue leading from the Sanam Luang parade grounds eastwards to the Golden Mount.

Sum chalerm prakiert: ceremonial arch over Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue in honour of King Rama IX’s eightieth birthday.

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